For anyone captivated by vintage jewelry, the name Napier is likely familiar.
This iconic American brand has been beloved for over a century, offering classic and sophisticated designs while also embracing bold, modern styles that set trends throughout the decades.
In this article, we delve into the history, design, hallmarks, and notable designers of Napier, providing vintage jewelry enthusiasts with a comprehensive guide to this legendary brand.
What is Napier? A Leading Vintage Jewelry Brand from the USA
Napier began in 1875 in Massachusetts as Whitney & Rice, producing silver watch chains and matchboxes.
In 1882, the company relocated to Meriden, Connecticut, known as a hub for silver products, where it began full-scale silver jewelry production. In 1922, the company was renamed Napier Company.
From that point onward, Napier pursued the concept of jewelry as “wearable art.” The brand became a staple in American department stores and cemented its status in the world of vintage jewelry. Napier continued to thrive until 1999, when it was unfortunately discontinued.
Notable Designers and Their Signature Styles
One reason Napier is so highly regarded among vintage jewelry collectors is the talent and creativity of its in-house designers.
William Rethenmeyer
A key designer during Napier’s golden era, active in the 1950s and 1960s. He specialized in architectural, modern lines and nature-inspired motifs, such as plants and animals. His designs include uniquely shaped bangles and bold, statement earrings—pieces that bring art into everyday wear.
Eugene Bertolli
Active during the 1950s and 1960s, Bertolli had a major influence on Napier’s intellectual, sculptural style. His designs often reflect Art Deco and Mid-Century modern aesthetics and remain highly sought after by vintage jewelry collectors today.
Napier’s Design Features and Appeal
Napier jewelry showcases a wide variety of materials and styles, including:
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Faux pearls
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Enamel
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Art glass
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Charms and coin motifs
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Antique-inspired designs
Popular series and motifs include:
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Gold-tone charm bracelets
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Exotic coin-style necklaces
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Colorful art glass brooches
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Minimalist, sculptural designs of the 1960s
At its peak in the 1960s, Napier reportedly produced over 1,200 unique designs, many of which remain fresh and innovative even today.
Dating Napier Jewelry by Hallmarks
For collectors, identifying the era of a piece via hallmarks is crucial. Napier changed its logo over time, which helps determine production dates:
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1922–c.1965: “NAPIER” (all uppercase, block letters)
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c.1965–1999: “Napier” (script, cursive style)
The transition around 1965 means block letter logos indicate older pieces, while script logos denote later production. Both styles are elegant and enhance the charm of each piece.
Why Napier Remains Beloved
Napier combines fashion, quality, and history. Although costume jewelry, its pieces exude a sophistication comparable to fine jewelry, earning the admiration of collectors and designers worldwide.
Items from the 1950s and 1960s are particularly valued as masterpieces of Mid-Century design and are often regarded as wearable art.
Napier in One Phrase
“Wearable art that transcends time.”
Napier jewelry is more than adornment; it is art that encapsulates history, craftsmanship, and creativity—timeless pieces that add a subtle sparkle to your style.