history
Miriam Haskell's Birth and Founding of Her Jewelry Brand
Birth and Background: Born on July 1, 1899, in Indiana, Miriam Haskell dropped out of college due to financial pressures and began working. In 1924, she started selling high-end jewelry in New York. She opened a store in the McAlphin Hotel (located at 103rd Street and 16th Street in New York), offering luxury jewelry from notable designers like Coco Chanel.
Brand Establishment: In 1926, she officially founded the "Miriam Haskell" brand, hiring Frank Hess—who had made a name for himself as a window display designer at Macy's—to be the chief designer.
Miriam Haskell's Designs and Characteristics
Though Haskell rarely designed herself, she carefully selected talented designers who shaped the brand's distinctive style. Frank Hess, as the primary designer, created many of the iconic pieces, such as lariat-style necklaces and designs using large natural motifs like flowers, leaves, and animals. Additionally, fringe and beadwork were common features in her designs.
Haskell’s jewelry became renowned for using high-quality materials, particularly fake pearls, which became her signature item. After World War II, Japanese baroque-style pearls were frequently used in her pieces, influencing the brand’s look significantly.
Miriam Haskell and Her Era
1930s Popularity: The brand's popularity skyrocketed when actress Joan Crawford was photographed wearing Miriam Haskell jewelry. Haskell released collections three times a year—spring, fall, and holiday seasons. Jewelry with fake pearls became especially beloved by many women.
Baroque Pearls and Japanese Pearls: Haskell established an exclusive contract with Niki Pearl, a Japanese pearl manufacturer, in 1958. From then on, many of her pieces incorporated these distinctive pearls. Niki's pearls, with their unique shapes and beauty, became a hallmark of Haskell’s designs, especially the baroque-style pearls.
Impact of World War II and Changes in Materials
Due to World War II and the resulting shortage of materials from Europe, Haskell faced challenges in sourcing materials. During this time, natural materials such as wood, feathers, and plastic were used more frequently. After the war, Haskell returned to sourcing materials from Europe and Rhode Island in the United States.
In the 1940s, the use of beads and rhinestones became more prominent, contributing to a more vibrant and glamorous aesthetic in her designs.
Business Evolution
In 1951, due to health issues, Miriam Haskell stepped away from running the business, passing the management over to her brother, Joseph Haskell. Frank Hess continued as the chief designer until 1960, after which the company underwent several changes in management and design. Despite these changes, the brand maintained its signature style and quality.
Revival After 1981
Even after Miriam Haskell passed away, her style continued to be honored. In 1981, jewelry was still produced under her name, preserving her classic style while incorporating modern elements. The brand is still active today, blending contemporary designs with its timeless, original aesthetic.
Miriam Haskell's Legacy
Miriam Haskell jewelry is highly regarded among vintage jewelry collectors and is known for its exceptional design and high quality. Her signature use of fake pearls and baroque pearls has had a significant influence on the fashion industry. Her designs continue to inspire many contemporary jewelry designers, cementing her place in fashion history.
Miriam Haskell Jewelry Marks and Dating
Miriam Haskell jewelry is renowned for its beautiful designs and high-quality craftsmanship, making it a prized possession for collectors. The hallmark or signature on her jewelry is crucial for determining the authenticity and dating of the pieces. Below is an overview of the evolution of her jewelry marks.
Miriam Haskell Jewelry Before the 1940s
In the early years of her brand, up until the 1940s, Miriam Haskell jewelry often did not feature a clear hallmark. Many pieces were sold with paper tags, known as "unsigned Miriam Haskell." This lack of a formal stamp made it difficult to identify authentic pieces, and other characteristics had to be relied upon for verification.
1948: Introduction of the Horseshoe Tag
In 1948, Miriam Haskell introduced the "horseshoe tag" as a new method of marking her jewelry. This tag, attached to the jewelry itself, became an iconic feature of her pieces. However, it was technically challenging to apply the tag to items like necklaces and bracelets without a filigree backing, and it was not always used consistently.
The horseshoe tag became a key identifier for Miriam Haskell jewelry and remains a significant clue for dating pieces from this period.
1951: Introduction of the Oval Mark
In 1951, the oval-shaped mark was introduced, replacing the horseshoe-shaped tag. The oval tag was designed to be adaptable to various jewelry designs, making it possible to attach it to almost any piece. This mark was simple and sophisticated, and it could also be used as a charm.
The inscription on the mark during this period read "MIRIAM HASKELL," and in some cases, the stamp was reversed on the back of the jewelry. After 1979, the oval tag became completely flat on the back, making it even easier to identify.
Changes and New Techniques in the 1970s
In the 1970s, new changes were introduced to Miriam Haskell's jewelry. A significant change occurred in 1975 with the introduction of the slide clasp. This clasp, along with hand-signed ceramic flower motif jewelry, became a distinctive feature of Miriam Haskell's designs during this period.
Additionally, end clasps started to be used, improving the manufacturing process. As a result, pieces that did not require traditional back-stringing techniques became more common, leading to cost improvements.
Miriam Haskell's jewelry features different marks and designs depending on the era, and understanding its history allows for a deeper appreciation of its charm. Particularly, the horseshoe-shaped tag and oval tag have become important elements in enhancing the jewelry's value.
For collectors, recognizing these marks is a crucial clue in confirming authenticity and serves as an important reference when making a purchase. Additionally, by enjoying the varied designs and techniques from different periods, collectors can enrich their Miriam Haskell jewelry collections.
Jewelry characteristics and how to spot fakes
Miriam Haskell's jewelry is known for its beautiful designs and high quality, making it beloved by many collectors. This article will introduce the characteristics of Miriam Haskell jewelry and points to help you distinguish genuine pieces from fakes. When purchasing authentic Miriam Haskell jewelry, it is important to pay attention to the craftsmanship and materials.
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Handmade Wire Securing and Soldering Miriam Haskell jewelry is known for its meticulous craftsmanship. Particularly, the jewelry is crafted without the use of glue, relying instead on wire securing and soldering. This is a significant clue for identifying Haskell jewelry. However, over years of wear or due to aging, clasps or bead motifs may corrode, and some owners may have reinforced them with glue. Therefore, it's important to understand that some jewelry may not be in its original state.
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Hook Clasps and Wire Securing The clasp used in Miriam Haskell jewelry is an important feature for distinguishing authenticity. When securing parts with wire, Haskell connects the closest holes of the filigree holes. Haskell's jewelry is designed with great attention to detail, even in areas that are not visible. Additionally, the clasps Haskell used are always square-off in shape with measurements of 2.5mm x 13.6mm. Chains are connected with jump rings, and the clasp is always attached to the right side of the necklace.
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Filigree and Gold Features One of the distinctive elements of Haskell jewelry is filigree (delicately crafted metal mesh parts). The filigree in Haskell jewelry is made with finely layered metal to create intricate, three-dimensional designs. However, in counterfeit Haskell jewelry, the gold tone may not be consistent. Authentic Haskell jewelry uses a technique called Russian Gold Plate (RGP), where the gold's tone may subtly vary, but the gold tone remains harmonious, unlike the mismatched colors seen in counterfeit pieces.
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Russian Gold Plate (RGP) The metal used in Miriam Haskell jewelry is called Russian Gold Plate (RGP), a technique developed by James Brady. This process provides Haskell jewelry with a high-quality gold plating and a distinctive sheen. RGP is more durable than typical gold plating, allowing the jewelry to maintain its beauty and condition over time.
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How to Spot Fakes Some pieces of Haskell jewelry have no marking and are referred to as "Unsigned Miriam Haskell" items. Both unsigned pieces and those with markings are often genuine, but collectors who are concerned with the presence of a mark should be aware. Miriam Haskell did repairs on jewelry in-house, and during repairs, new parts might have been stamped with older marks. Therefore, not all Haskell jewelry without a marking is counterfeit.
Additionally, earrings or hoop-style jewelry may have a "PATPEND" mark, indicating that the product was patent-pending. This mark was used on designs unique to Haskell jewelry.
Here are the main points to help identify the authenticity of Haskell jewelry:
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Markings After the 1950s
From the 1950s onwards, almost every piece of Haskell jewelry features a marking. Especially after the 1960s, you can find the "Miriam Haskell" or "Haskell" markings on necklaces, earrings, bracelets, and other items. In some cases, there may be no marking, which is referred to as "Unsigned" (unmarked). While unsigned pieces can still be genuine, there are also fakes, so it's important to assess other characteristics to distinguish authenticity. -
Quality and Consistency of Parts
Haskell jewelry is known for its high-quality materials and components. The designer carefully selects each bead and part, ensuring that only high-quality elements are used. If there is a noticeable mismatch in parts, beads with inconsistent colors, or low-quality components, it is likely a fake. Authentic Haskell pieces will always have a consistent quality across the materials used. -
Use of Glue and Wirework Inspection
Authentic Haskell jewelry rarely uses glue. Parts are securely attached using delicate wirework, and the wirework is refined and precise. Counterfeit Haskell jewelry often features rough wirework or poorly attached components, which can be a significant clue. However, be aware that pieces from before World War II or those that have been repaired later may have been reinforced with glue or have wire corrosion due to aging. Therefore, it's essential to carefully inspect the construction for authenticity.
Additionally, similar to jewelry with Trifari or KTF (Kayser-Tiffany) markings, some pre-WWII pieces may use glue to secure rhinestones. In such cases, even if glue is used, the piece may still be authentic, so it’s important to consider the period and design to make an informed judgment.