One jewelry brand known for a glamorous brilliance comparable to Weiss is Kramer, founded in 1943 by Louis Kramer.
Kramer is particularly well known for its effective use of high-quality Austrian rhinestones, whose striking sparkle has often placed the brand alongside other prominent, glamorous names of the same era. Many Kramer pieces are immediately eye-catching, characterized by strong visual presence and bold design.
Kramer jewelry was produced across a wide range of price points, from relatively accessible pieces to more ornate and decorative designs. As a result, the brand appealed to a broad audience and offered considerable stylistic variety. Designs range from simple, restrained compositions to richly embellished pieces featuring an abundance of rhinestones. In particular, works using colorful Austrian rhinestones stand out for their visual impact and clearly express Kramer’s signature aesthetic.
Some Kramer pieces also feature opal-style glass stones. These stones change their appearance depending on how light strikes them, adding depth and dimension to the overall design. Their softer, more subtle glow contrasts with the brilliance of rhinestones, introducing variation and richness to the jewelry.
In addition, a small number of pieces are believed to incorporate sappharine, a type of glass similar to sapphirelite. These examples are produced in very limited quantities and are now regarded as highly scarce among collectors. The muted tones and distinctive luminosity of sappharine make these pieces particularly memorable within the Kramer oeuvre.
Overall, Kramer jewelry is characterized by designs that balance sparkle and color without becoming excessively ornate. Thanks to their high level of finish and thoughtful use of materials, Kramer pieces continue to be appreciated by vintage jewelry enthusiasts and collectors today.
The opal stones have excellent color matching
The beautiful Swarovski crystals are in vibrant colors and are carefully set with prongs.
Kramer jewelry is also characterized by variations in markings and the presence or absence of signatures, depending on the line and the period of production. Pieces considered part of the relatively higher-priced lines are often marked “Kramer” or “Kramer NY.” At the same time, there are examples with no metal mark at all, which are believed to have been sold originally with paper tags only.
Understanding these differences in marks and tags can be helpful when considering the approximate date or relative positioning of a Kramer piece. However, it is important to note that markings alone are not sufficient to determine value or age. Design, construction, materials, and overall quality should always be considered together when evaluating Kramer jewelry.
Kramer Jewelry of the 1950s
The 1950s are regarded as one of the most significant and collectible periods in Kramer’s history. Jewelry from this decade displays an especially wide range of designs and remains highly sought after by collectors today. Many pieces feature abstract motifs and geometric patterns, reflecting innovative and forward-looking design approaches.
In addition, Kramer produced a rich variety of figurative motifs, including animals, insects, and crowns. These designs brought a sense of individuality and freshness to the fashion scene of the time and are now recognized as some of Kramer’s most iconic visual elements.
Another distinctive technique frequently seen in 1950s Kramer jewelry involves placing a black mesh or netting beneath the rhinestones before setting them. This method enhances the brilliance of the stones while adding depth and contrast, resulting in a dramatic yet refined sparkle. This technique has become one of Kramer’s most recognizable stylistic signatures and continues to attract collectors today.
The Golden Look series is regarded as one of the most notable named lines within Kramer jewelry of the 1950s. Jewelry sold with paper tags bearing the name “Golden Look” has been confirmed, indicating that this was not a later collector’s term but an actual series name used at the time of sale.
The Golden Look series is characterized by a beautifully executed gold-tone plated finish that evokes the appearance of real gold, combined with sparkling rhinestones. Designs typically feature warm gold-toned metal accented with colorful rhinestones, creating a rich, luminous effect true to the series name. The matte or satin-finished gold tones lend a sense of refinement while maintaining a strong visual presence, reflecting Kramer’s distinctive aesthetic.
Golden Look pieces embodied the sense of luxury that was in demand in the fashion world at the time, yet they were offered at relatively accessible price points. This balance made them suitable not only for special occasions but also for everyday wear, contributing to their popularity among a wide range of women.
Despite being costume jewelry, the high level of craftsmanship and convincing gold-like appearance of the Golden Look series remain key reasons why Kramer’s 1950s designs continue to be highly regarded by collectors and vintage jewelry enthusiasts today.
The 1950s: The Collaboration Between Dior and Kramer
Kramer’s high level of technical skill and consistently refined craftsmanship attracted the attention of Christian Dior in the 1950s. As a result, Kramer was selected as a manufacturer responsible for producing Dior’s costume jewelry.
This collaboration led to the creation of pieces now widely known as “Kramer by Dior.”
Jewelry produced during this period is highly regarded for both its design quality and level of craftsmanship, and today these pieces command strong interest and value in the collector market. Such jewelry is typically marked “Dior by Kramer” or “Kramer for C. Dior,” and their relative rarity places them among the most distinctive and desirable works within Kramer’s overall body of jewelry.
The 1960s: The Introduction of the Diamond Look Series
In the 1960s, Kramer introduced the “Diamond Look” series, a new line characterized by refined designs featuring an ice-silver–toned plated finish accented with carefully set rhinestones.
The Diamond Look series combines elegance with brilliance, and its balanced, sophisticated appearance has led to continued appreciation, particularly in the context of bridal jewelry. Even today, pieces from this line are sometimes offered by jewelry retailers for formal and ceremonial wear.
Kramer jewelry from this period is known for its restrained yet polished beauty—designs that maintain a strong presence without excessive ornamentation. This versatility has allowed Diamond Look pieces to be enjoyed across a wide range of settings, from everyday fashion to special occasions.
Amourelle
Among Kramer’s collections of the 1960s, one of the most closely watched and discussed is the line known as “Amourelle,” which is generally believed to have been introduced around 1963. Amourelle is often associated with the name of Frank Hess, the celebrated former chief designer of Miriam Haskell, and is regarded as a particularly special and distinctive presence within the Kramer oeuvre.
Amourelle jewelry is known for its exceptional rarity and relatively high market value even among Kramer pieces. Unlike other Kramer lines, the hallmark consists solely of the word “Amourelle,” a feature that immediately sets these pieces apart. While the designs may appear understated at first glance, they reveal a remarkably high level of refinement in overall balance and finishing details, clearly reflecting superior manufacturing quality. For this reason, Amourelle jewelry continues to be highly regarded by collectors and vintage jewelry enthusiasts, and examples are not easily found on the market today.
At the same time, the commonly cited explanation that “Frank Hess designed the Amourelle line for Kramer in 1963” raises an intriguing question. Frank Hess, a legendary figure who played a central role in Miriam Haskell’s golden era, is reported in multiple sources to have passed away in 1960. Taken at face value, this creates a chronological inconsistency.
Several interpretations have been suggested to address this point. One possibility is that 1963 refers to the year Amourelle was formally introduced or organized as a named line, while the original design concepts themselves may have been developed during Frank Hess’s lifetime. Another view is that the designs reflect Hess’s distinctive decorative techniques and aesthetic so strongly that the line later became associated with his name, even without direct involvement at that date.
In any case, based on currently available documentation, it is difficult to state definitively that Frank Hess was actively working for Kramer in 1963. Rather, it is most prudent to understand Amourelle as a special Kramer line that strongly reflects the influence of Frank Hess’s design philosophy.
With this layered background, Amourelle stands out not merely as a high-end Kramer line, but as a collection that combines rarity, craftsmanship, and a certain degree of historical mystery. It is precisely this depth—both aesthetic and contextual—that continues to captivate collectors today.
Signed on a cute heart-shaped plate.
This is a later work by Kramer, likely influenced by Frank Hess.
As the 1970s began, Kramer gradually wound down its operations, and it is generally believed that production as a jewelry brand came to an end by the late 1970s. While the brand’s history effectively closed at that point, Kramer jewelry itself continues to be highly regarded today.
Among its most celebrated works are parures—matching sets that typically include a necklace, brooch, and earrings—featuring beautifully executed rhinestones. These sets are widely recognized as emblematic of Kramer’s aesthetic and remain especially popular among collectors. Combining striking glamour with a high level of craftsmanship, such parures have grown increasingly appreciated over time, with market values showing a noticeable upward trend in recent years.
Kramer jewelry is distinguished by its eye-catching brilliance and strong decorative presence, often reflecting the fashion sensibilities and aesthetic ideals of its era. In particular, parures lavishly set with rhinestones continue to be objects of admiration among collectors. Well-preserved examples, especially those that remain complete as full sets, are frequently traded at comparatively high prices.
For these reasons, Kramer is now regarded as one of the more prominent and closely followed names in vintage costume jewelry, valued for both its visual impact and its enduring appeal among collectors and enthusiasts.
