Napier: An American Jewelry House with Over a Century of History
Napier is a name that quietly appears again and again when exploring American vintage jewelry.
It is not a brand built on excess or spectacle, but one remembered for its confident forms, solid construction, and designs that continue to feel relevant long after their time.
For more than a century, Napier produced jewelry in the United States, moving fluidly between classic elegance and modern boldness. Its pieces reflect the changing tastes of each era while maintaining a distinct identity that still resonates today.
This article takes a closer look at Napier’s history, design philosophy, maker’s marks, and the designers who shaped the brand.
The Origins and Growth of Napier
Napier’s story began in 1875, when the company was founded in Massachusetts under the name Whitney & Rice. In its early years, the firm produced silver watch chains, match safes, and other functional silver goods.
In 1882, the company relocated to Meriden, Connecticut—a city that would soon become known as “Silver City” for its concentration of silver manufacturers. This move marked the beginning of Napier’s serious involvement in jewelry production.
In 1922, the company adopted the name Napier Company, signaling a shift toward fashion jewelry. From that point forward, Napier established itself as a reliable presence in American department stores, offering pieces that balanced wearability with thoughtful design.
The company continued operating until 1999, bringing an unusually long chapter in American jewelry manufacturing to a close.
Designers Behind Napier’s Signature Style
One of the reasons Napier jewelry remains visually compelling is the strength of its in-house design talent.
William Rethenmeyer
Active primarily during the 1950s and 1960s, Rethenmeyer was known for architectural lines and sculptural forms. His work often incorporated botanical and animal motifs, rendered with a sense of volume and restraint. Many of Napier’s bold bangles and statement earrings from this period carry his influence.
Eugene Bertolli
Another key figure during the mid-century years, Bertolli contributed to Napier’s more refined and intellectual aesthetic. His designs often reflect Art Deco and mid-century modern sensibilities, emphasizing form and proportion over ornamentation.
Design Characteristics of Napier Jewelry
Napier jewelry is notable for its wide range of materials and motifs.
The company worked extensively with faux pearls, enamel, art glass, charms, coin motifs, milk glass beads, and antiqued metal finishes.
Well-known styles include:
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Chunky gold-tone charm bracelets
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Coin-inspired necklaces with an exotic feel
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Art glass brooches in rich, carefully balanced color palettes
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Minimal, sculptural designs from the 1960s
By the 1960s, Napier reportedly offered over 1,200 different designs in a single year—an impressive output that speaks to both creativity and scale.
Dating Napier Jewelry by Maker’s Marks
Napier pieces can often be dated by examining their markings:
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1922–circa 1965: “NAPIER” in all capital block letters
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Circa 1965–1999: “Napier” in script lettering
This transition is a useful reference point when identifying production periods. Both marks are well executed and reflect the brand’s consistent attention to detail.
The Enduring Appeal of Napier
Napier was never about rarity for its own sake.
Its value lies in design integrity, craftsmanship, and a long-standing commitment to quality.
The jewelry is approachable yet assured, decorative without being excessive. Many pieces feel as relevant today as they did decades ago—quietly confident, well made, and easy to live with.
Napier jewelry is not simply something to own.
It is something to wear, to return to, and to appreciate over time.