Trifari

Trifari: An American Costume Jewelry House of the 20th Century

Trifari is widely recognized as one of the most important American costume jewelry manufacturers of the 20th century.
Known for its refined design language and consistently high level of craftsmanship, the brand earned lasting respect among the many jewelry companies that flourished during the same era.

The Founding of Trifari and the Formation of the Brand

The founder, Gustavo Trifari, was born in Naples, Italy, in 1883 and learned the fundamentals of metalwork under his grandfather.
In 1904, he emigrated to the United States, where he began working in New York alongside his uncle producing costume jewelry.

In 1910, Gustavo and his uncle established Trifari & Trifari, but he soon set out on his own. In 1912, he founded a new company under his own name: Trifari.
In 1917, a highly capable sales manager, Leo Krussman, joined the firm, leading to a name change to Trifari & Krussman the following year.
Karl Fishel joined in 1923, and in 1925 the company became Trifari, Krussman & Fishel (TKF).
Despite these formal name changes, the brand continued to be known simply as Trifari, a name that remained consistent throughout its history.

Alfred Philippe and a Turning Point in Design

A decisive moment in Trifari’s history came in 1930, when Alfred Philippe, a designer with professional experience at Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, joined the company as head designer.

Philippe brought with him a fine-jewelry mindset—an understanding of structure, proportion, and stone setting—while adapting these principles to the realities of costume jewelry.
His work has often been described as jewelry “designed as if for diamonds and precious stones, then realized in rhinestones,” reflecting both technical sophistication and visual credibility.

During the 1930s, Trifari created jewelry for Broadway productions such as Roberta, and its pieces were worn by Hollywood and Broadway performers. This exposure significantly elevated the brand’s public profile.

Becoming One of America’s Leading Costume Jewelry Manufacturers

Throughout the 1930s and 1940s, Trifari experienced rapid growth and became the second-largest costume jewelry manufacturer in the United States, following Coro.
This success was not simply the result of mass production, but rather a careful balance of quality, finishing, and design.

Alfred's creations feature glittering rhinestones. Many of them are very glamorous.

 

Crown Motifs and Jelly Belly Designs

During Alfred Philippe’s tenure, Trifari produced many of its most iconic designs, particularly the Crown motif and the Jelly Belly series.

The Crown motif appeared from the late 1930s through the 1950s and was incorporated into the Trifari signature.
Special pieces were also created in connection with the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II in 1953. Designs featuring large cabochons and multicolored rhinestones became visual symbols of the brand.

The Jelly Belly series emerged around 1940 and is characterized by animal motifs with transparent or translucent Lucite cabochons forming the “belly.”
Swordfish, owls, spiders, flies, and other whimsical forms combined humor with sculptural elegance and remain among Trifari’s most highly regarded designs.

Jelly Belly has several animal and insect motifs, and they are all expensive.

If you're a collector, you'll want to own one of these crowns. They're also expensive, and prices are rising every year.

 

“TRIFARI PAT PEND” and Its Meaning

Some Trifari pieces bear the mark “TRIFARI PAT PEND”, meaning Patent Pending.
This marking is most commonly found on pieces from the 1940s through the early 1950s and indicates that the design or construction was in the process of patent application at the time of manufacture.

For collectors, this mark serves as a useful reference point when estimating production periods.

Pricing and Market Position

According to magazine advertisements from 1954, Trifari necklaces were priced at approximately $5 to $15.
This placed them firmly above inexpensive novelty jewelry and positioned Trifari as a brand offering high-quality costume jewelry through department stores.

Compared with home-party sales brands of the same era, Trifari maintained a relatively high minimum price point, reflecting its emphasis on finish, durability, and overall quality.

 

 

Trifanium: Trifari’s Plating Standards

One factor often cited in Trifari’s reputation is its proprietary plating standard known as Trifanium.
Rather than a specific alloy, the term refers to Trifari’s finishing processes and internal quality benchmarks.

While many vintage pieces show plating loss over time, Trifari jewelry often exhibits gradual thinning rather than complete flaking.
In some cases, light tarnish can be restored through careful polishing, suggesting a higher level of durability.

In 1942, wartime metal restrictions required Trifari to use sterling silver as a base metal.
Although prices increased, contemporary records suggest that sales were not significantly affected, and quality remained highly regarded.

 

Trifarium has the smoothness and luster of Sterling.

 

Day-to-Night Parure Sets

During the 1950s and 1960s, Trifari released numerous parures—coordinated sets of necklaces, brooches, and earrings—often inspired by natural motifs.
Textured metal surfaces combined with rhinestones or faux pearls produced designs suitable for daytime wear as well as evening occasions.

At a time when changing jewelry between day and night was customary, these sets offered both practicality and elegance.

Many of the designs are natural and feature pearls. They are extremely popular and difficult to find.

 

Reinterpretation and the Legacy of Alfred Philippe

In the early 1950s, Trifari revisited certain earlier design elements associated with Alfred Philippe, adapting them to contemporary tastes.
Mirror-polished finishes gave way to matte textures, and pavé-heavy styles were softened to achieve a more restrained elegance.

These changes appear to reflect evolving fashion sensibilities rather than a departure from the brand’s core identity.

The glossy one is Alfred's original. The textured one was released later.

 

Trifari Designs by Japanese Designer Kunio Matsumoto

During the 1970s, Kunio Matsumoto, a Japanese designer, contributed designs to Trifari.
His work often featured natural motifs and abstract forms, introducing a distinct character within the brand’s broader output.

Bold silhouettes and unconventional material choices set these pieces apart from other Trifari designs.
Today, Matsumoto’s Trifari pieces are relatively uncommon on the market and have attracted increasing attention from collectors.

The engraving is "Trifari" and "Kunio Matsumoto". Each piece is rare and therefore trades at a high price.

 

Late-Period Trifari and the Limited Edition Series

The Trifari™ line introduced in the 1990s falls outside the conventional definition of vintage jewelry.
However, as part of the brand’s final chapter, these pieces are often referred to as “the last Trifari” by collectors.

Designs from this period tend to feature enamel and smaller rhinestones, resulting in lighter, more contemporary aesthetics.
At the same time, references to earlier Trifari classics remain visible, creating a distinctive blend of modern sensibility and historical awareness.

Particularly noteworthy is the Limited Edition series released in the late 1990s.
These pieces reinterpreted iconic designs from the 1940s and 1950s using high-quality materials and finishes, with production runs typically limited to around 300 pieces per design.

Many were sold with original boxes and certificates, which significantly enhance their current value.
While distinct from original vintage pieces, the series represents Trifari’s final, intentional reflection on its own design legacy.

 

Limited edition with ™ mark. Boxed and carded pieces are rare.